Monday, February 26, 2007

Mysore

Our bustrip down to Mysore was easy. actually first that morning we were meeting up with metrobloggers at Lalbagh -we got there 30 minutes early and got to see the sunrise at 630 am. there is a sort of granite hill with a shrine on top. lots of people exercising, some people meditating, lots of
people facing the sun. there were even women in the all black muslim clothing that covers everything except their eyes exercising. we saw chipmunks or maybe the are squirrels that look like chipmunks, lots of crows and kites and some blue wade in water birds. walked around for awhile then went to MTR for breakfast - idlis and dosa - yum - and to start with a very sweet thing made of milks solids and in a sweet syrup.

oh and great coffee - strong and milky and sweet and they bring one full metal cup and one empty medal cup and they pour it between the two to cool it off. was very yummy. then one of the metrobloggers told a rickshaw driver where to take us - the mysore road bus stand. which we got to and it was the right one and we found our bus, which was the inexpensive option - no AC, but at least a direct bus. we had assigned seats but nobody sat in them, but it was all fine. I was a little queazy on the way down. oh and hahaha since the bus had no bathroom and was going to be 3.5 hrs I decided to use the bus stop bathrm - you pay 2 rps and you get a dark little room with a hole in the middle, when the woman noticed my uncertainty she unlocked the special bathroom which had a toilet with no seat on it, just the porcelain part, so
I stod above it and peed. and luckily I had brought my kleenex. ugh.

the drive was fascinating - rice paddys, coconut trees or palms trees, and two nice paved lanes in each direction - but lots of bikes two wheelers trucks filled with people and underpowered vehicles. Charles took lots of photos. On the way down we encountered huge protests over a water decision made by a board - the road was blocked and we had to go the wrong way down the other side, the buses did a good job of coping. once we had to take a detour down a dirt road. protests here are amazing. in many ways far more nuanced than the US, every new word I learn is some new way of protesting. and people really band together. I guess I am surprised at how much it comes up. a few days before we travelled some other buses got stoned!! in protest.
ok. our driver was really good at his job. we stopped halfway at a bus station that had no signs in english.

Made it to Mysore and stayed in the Green Hotel, famous for its yoga. stayed in the maharishni suite, which was beautiful, old wood everywhere, four poster bed, little sitting room. all expats/tourists staying there. we hired a car to take us around for a day and a half. went to a store that had silk, bought some, they took our measurements and now we have some raw silk kurtas. the palace where the Wodeyars were was stunning, you had to walk barefoot through it and no cameras inside! and security guards constantly asking us for american money!! but oh my god that palace is stunning.

ok more later. getting on a bus to come back did not go nearly so easily.

Friday, February 23, 2007

bangalore life

I was thinking today though how hard it is to communicate what it is really like. I don't think I really got it until I got here. the constant noise and dust and dirt and the sheer number of people everywhere. and the beautiful riot of color in clothing people wear -the most saturated colors that are stunning pinks and reds and blues and greens. I love everyone's clothing.

in some ways it is such luxury I have here - haven't done any chores at all.plus being driven everywhere is amazing. this city has enough rickshaws that you can mostly find several where ever you are, so if you do not like one price, just go to the next one.

tried to buy tickets today - mentioned in the newspaper - but not so easy! it said forum mall, I went out there, but info desk knew nothing, I asked twice, then tried the bkstore, they helpfully said oh it is one flr up at world space store, went up and cinema guy said no world space up here, I wander a bit and 20 yds from him IS world space, but they have no tickets yet. tickets to zakir hussain! so will try elsewhere.

this wkend we are travelling out of bangalore to Mysore. very excited.apparently Blore is very developed compared to other places. we hope to go on a bus. and we are staying at a palace. also found a great art india magazine. books and magazine are very reasonable. mass market paperbacks are 250 Rs about $5.

ok off to the bus station. there is so much to tell. oh here was a cool thing I saw today - two men on the side of our street ironing! the irons were huge and looked like they had hot coals in them, and they had a huge stack of clothing - they were pressing the clothing. on this wooden wheelie cart. just something you would not see in the US.

Monday, February 19, 2007

library card

woo, I now have a British Library card. Includes some internet access. Lots of magazines to read, I think I will hang out all day here today.

Wednesday, February 14, 2007

electricity has been going on and off all day long, much harder when it gets dark, but we have one flashlight and 2 candles. and somehow the internet is still working. and this computer has a battery.
My first two autorickshaw rides all by myself. and it was easy. Out to Forum mall to go to the Landmark bkstore there. I was worried my 100 ruppee note would be a problem, but it wasn't.
It was fun.

then househunting this afternoon. places we saw were all palaces. too big and completely unfurnished - no stove or fridge. saw 5 places, tomorrow we will see more. hopefully smaller and furnished and closer to work . was fascinating seeing the city. the driving is insane I can not believe it, I could never do it. I can't even really explain how chaotic it is. you have to venture out into traffic to turn right and everyone honks and goes around you. I think you have to be born here to drive here.

Monday, February 12, 2007

Sunday and Monday

Had a wonderful first day in B'lore. Walked up to MG road - actually we tried to get an auto to take us to a mall, but they wouldn't, not sure why. We bought an extension cord and a great map which were the two things we wanted. We wandered around, ended up in a dept store for a snack and then Charles negotiated with an auto driver to get us home - the driver wanted Rs 200 - and finally settled for 80, I was happy to get a ride home.

Then later we decided to go to a movie at Alliance Francais - free film festival about human rights and we watched a movie about hijra - India's third gender. We arrived an hour late due to trying to find an ATM and then having the wrong card and having to go back to the house to get it. Auditorium was packed and very hot, and we stood up for an hour to watch the film.
The driver who took us did not know where it was so we showed him on the map, he still asked a bunch of people when we got close, but he did find it. Then we got an auto for Rs40 back to a close hotel and had a spicy dinner and then walked 2 blocks home. I felt like it was a very successful first day.

Today is the bandh - so very quiet. great photos over at metroblog Bangalore -
http://bangalore.metblogs.com/
I love the quiet. we walked over to the office so we could both log on.

Saturday, February 10, 2007

leaving Singapore tonight and going to Bangalore.
love the hawker food centres here.
and transit is easy. too many shopping malls
yesterday we did dangling up high cable cars and the night safari
and a great art exhibit of moleskines.

Saturday, February 3, 2007

comfort

In our last few days in SF the thing I am most aware of is how easy and comfortable everything is. For me, being in SF is like being in my own skin - I know the buses, where to go to dinner, where to buy something. Everything feels easy and comfortable. I know what people expect of me, I know the protocols. And I feel like I could get that comfortable in most US cities. And even in most European cities. Or Australia. Or NZ. Canada.

but not India. I wonder if I'll feel this comfortable in Bangalore after a year. I've been in SF since 1989.

Saw Masami Teraoka art at the Catherine Clark gallery today. And bought underwear at Macy's just in case all of bangalore doesn't have big underwears. The second floor is done. 2 more boxes for my sister and the wooden bench.

so 5 boxes in truckee, 3 in SF. 2 pieces of art with dan. one wooden trunk with my sister. I think that's it.

Thursday, February 1, 2007

We are slowling learning some abbreviations that can be found in housing ads -

bhk=bedroom, hall, kitchen - so 3bhk is 3 bedrooms a hall and a kitchen.

pg=paying guest, like a lodger.

Tomorrow I am going to try and get a one year visa.